How to install Floating Floors

RULES FOR THE INSTALLATION OF WICANDERS FLOATING FLOORS WITH CORKLOC SERIES 100, SERIES 300, SERIES 1000 AND SERIES 3000

LAYING
Wicanders Series 100, Series 300, Series 1000 and Series 3000 are natural products and each individual plank has its own shade and pattern.
Therefore, shuffle the planks in order to obtain the most pleasant blend of shades.
Lay planks preferably following the direction of the main source of light.
We recommend to lay Wicanders floors on wooden floors crossways to the existing floorboard.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED:
Padsaw or a fine toothed handsaw, spacer blocks, pencil, set square, 0,2mm PE film, adhesive tape.

1. Door Frames If a door frame needs to be cut, use a piece of plank to obtain the correct height. Saw door frames and architrave's to require height allowing for 2 mm of space to the planks.

Moisture Protection

All types of concrete subfloors require insulation against moisture.
This includes types with built-in moisture barrier, ceramic, heated and covered with resilient floors.

Use a PE moisture barrier film with a minimum thickness of 0,2 mm (.008’’).
On ground and basement subfloors we recommend to lay 2 layers crossways for better moisture protection.

2. Lay the PE film, allowing for at least 20 cm (8'') overlapping and tape. Turn the film upward 5-cm along the walls. Trim after the skirting boards are fixed.

Measure the room accurately, at right angle to the direction of the planks.
The planks in the final row should be at least 5 cm wide.
If necessary, the planks in the first row can be cut to smaller size.

3. Turn the tongue side of the plank facing the wall. Maintain a gap of 10 mm on the short side. Adjust the lengthways gap from the wall once 3 rows of planks have been laid.

4. If you are installing Wood three strips, trie not to match the strips of the tiles.

First Three Rows:
The planks can be laid from all directions if necessary. CorkLoc is easy to uninstall.

We recommend start laying in the right-hand corner.

5. Turn the tongue side of the plank facing the wall. Maintain a gap of 10 mm on the short side. Adjust the lengthways gap from the wall once 3 rows of planks have been laid.	6. Hold the next plank against the first at an angle to the first one and lay it flat on the floor. Complete the first row in the same way.
7. Cut the final plank of the first row to the correct length.	8. Start the next row with the piece left over (must be at least 300 mm long). Always ensure that the end joints are staggered at least 300 mm. lace the final plank face down and the short side without the locking strip towards the wall. The distance to the wall should be 10 mm.
9. Mark where the floorboard is to be cut. Place the plank face down on the work surface and cut to size using a padsaw. Use a fine toothed type if you are using a hand saw. In this case, cut the planks face up.	10. Use a cut piece of plank from the previous row to start the next row. This must be at least 30 cm long. If the piece is to short, start with a new board, cut in half. Always ensure that the end joints are staggered at least 30 cm.
11. Place the first plank of the new row with the tongue side at an angle against the groove side of the plank in the previous row. Press forward and lay it flat at the same time. .	12. Place the short end of the plank at an angle against the previous installed plank and fold down. Ensure that the board is positioned on the integral locking strip of the floorboard in the previous row.
13. Lift floorboard (together with the previous laid in the same row) lightly up (about 30 mm), push it against the row in front and then put it down.	14. Tip: This movement requires some gentle adjustments on the pressing angle. djust the distance to the wall to 10 mm when three rows are completed. Proceed the installation as described above until reaching the opposite wall.

15. Sometimes the first row must be cut to match an uneven wall. Transfer the shape of the wall to the planks. Do not forget to allow 10 mm for the expansion gap.

16. To remove the first row, lift the plank a few centimetres and tap along the joint. Cut the planks as required.

17. Measure and cut the planks in the last row to size. Allow for 10 mm distance to the wall. No plank should be less than 5 cm width..

18. The last and first plank, can be cut in the correct with. Place the last plank on top the second to last plank. Mark the plank to be with help of a piece of plank without locking strip. Allow for 10mm distance to the wall for the expansion gap.

19. The holes should be 20mm greater than the pipe diameter. Saw as shown in the picture. Glue the sawed piece back into place. Cover the hole with a pipe sleeve.	20. If you wish to remove the flooring, just lift the planks a few centimetres and tap along the joint.
21. The released plank can then be pulled out. Never bend connected plank backwards, while this will damage the planks.

22. If you cannot angle the tile under e.g. a doorframe or low fitted radiator, you can do as the picture shows: cut away the locking edge..

23. Glue (PVA Glue, class D3). Install the plank.